Dubai - Might not be for everyone - Here's Why

Imagine if you will, a place that is the EXACT opposite of Cape Town. You could probably describe Dubai to a tee if you read the past four blog entries, and create a list of things about Cape Town, and then jot down their antonyms. Just about the only thing that is the same is that both places are inhabited by Homo Sapiens. But even there, the types of Homo Sapiens are a bit different too.

For your convienence, I've taken the liberty to list some pairings:

Cape Town : Dubai

• Surrounded by mountains : Surrounded by sand
• Pleasant coastal weather : Hot and muggy
• Fresh & clear cloud speckled skies : Hazy brown cloudless skies 
• Cold ocean waves crashing against powdery white sand and boulders : Warm placid Persian Gulf waters lapping upon manmade beaches from jetskis and power yachts
• CRAZY Cheap : CRAZY, CRAZY expensive (Think Vegas pricing)
• Quaint local restaurants serving delicious food : Big Box chain restaurants serving average big box food (at previously mentioned CRAZY prices)
• Drive on the left : Drive on the right
• Nature made attractions : Man-made attractions
• A remote outpost at the tip of a continent : The center axle of worldwide travel

You really do have to applaud the brain trust that figured out how to convert dinosaur juice (oil) in to a hive of activity in the middle of a barren wasteland of desert - and to do so before it runs out. Granted, I wonder if the dinosaurs would cringe at the fact that humans decided to build a ski resort in this desert. By the time they're done sucking the ground dry (and have successfully switched over to renewable energy), they will have created a gold mine - but instead of mining the earth, they'll be mining people's pocket books. Economic genius really.

Dubai is a city doing its best to reach for the skies and with the amount of tower cranes strewn across the horizon, the race rages on. I would hate to be an architect in this town, always trying to make your building stand out. Most buildings are nondescript beige straight things with some manner of alternating siding to try and blend in the compulsory balconies. Because there is only so much they can do with the building itself, the main difference are the “hats” or "hairdos" they set upon the tops.

Fairly typical Dubai panorama... A signature building (that twisty thing), a bunch of other taupe (we think there must be some kind of cultural thing that every building is beige) buildings competing to be the tallest, a couple new buildings going up, and a harbor full of yachts. Our hotel, the Marriott is the relatively "diminutive" one (52 stories) the third from the left.  Notice the tops...

Various head-dressings: Crowns, Bishop Hats, Butch Cuts, Mullets, Mohawks, Feathers, Spires, Knights Helmets, and our building must have been Jewish (bottom right)...it's adorned with a Yarmulke

But this one was the oddest one of them all. I wonder if the architect suffered an aneurysm in the final stages of design and scribbled an outhouse to adorn this skyscraper. 

In my humble opinion, I’m not entirely sure what the appeal of Dubai is, especially for Americans. It’s basically Vegas without the casinos and the dam tour. Moreover, Vegas actually seems quaint and compact compared to Dubai. To put it in perspective, to travel from the Atlantis resort for an afternoon waterpark adventure at the end of the palm, to the Burj Khalifa, is a 45 minute taxi drive on highways that will set you back $70. Is it worth visiting? I suppose if you were passing through on a layover to somewhere else on your bucket list, it’s probably worth a couple nights just to say you’ve been there, but I certainly wouldn’t make a special trip. Save some dollars and indulge yourself in Vegas. Am I glad we visited? Yes. It was a scratch to itch, and if we didn't pause to take a look around, I would have always wondered...

A photo tour...
We looked up the top 17 (not sure why it is 17, not 15, or 20) things to do in Dubai as reported by the tourism bureau, and in our three days here, we ticked off most (or at least variants of most - because 7 of them are to go shopping in different places). Here is a brief photo tour:

Our 52 story hotel dwarfed by it's neighbors. 

Our first stop was the Dubai Mall, largest mall on the planet. Yep, it's pretty big. Took us 30 minutes to find the food court.

This is a scale model of the next tallest thing to be built in Dubai. Might be worth checking out in a decade or so.

It's pretty clear that they only install something if its the biggest thing you can buy. This wall of 4K screens was GI-normous.

There is an aquarium with one of the largest fishtank in the world in the middle of the mall.

You walk through the tank in a cool tunnel.

Just outside the mall is this really tall building. I think it's called the Burj Khalifa. It's shockingly tall. We watched the fountain show in the lake in front of it. And no, we did not go to the top. That would have set us back $500, and when you're travelling the world for a year, we have to pick our battles. Considering 3 of 5 of us are afraid of heights....

Only in Dubai (or Vegas probably) where money goes to be burned.... This was a store that sold cereal. That's it, cereal. Standard, store bought cereal. But pretty much every version you could think of. But here is the thing, you can chose as many as you want and mix them together! And, they give you milk too. All that for a measly $7. Sign us up! Two bowls please. And make that to go. 

Comes in a nice designer take away bag with custom milk bottles of course. But no spoons! Ah ha... Where's the spoon?

Aquaventure at the Atlantis
Where do you go to stay cool (besides the mall) when you're in a desert? That's right, a waterpark. We spent a full day at Aquaventure at the Atlantis and that was super fun. It's massive. There were plenty of slides, but our collective favorite thing was the "lazy" river, which was anything but lazy.

The river incorporated super fun rapids that went under walkways and around tight corners. 

Increasing elevation is necessary to create rapids - Innertube escalators!

Bryce and Zane played in this elaborate play structure with some seriously fun water slides.

Had to study the map to make sure we got our bearings. Fortunately it was off season, so the crowds were tolerable. I can't imagine what it would be like in busy times. 

Our first, and likely only, dip in the Persian Gulf. It's like bath water warm.

These little fish actually were attracted to moving feet. Odd really.

if you squint, the Burj is in their heart. I'm not sure if it's industrial air pollution, or just from dust, but the air was quite brown during our stay. I don't think it's dust as it wasn't terribly windy.

Atlantis hotel after dark

It's really a testament to human ingenuity.... If there ain't enough nature made shoreline, make it yourself. I guess if you build some dikes and throw some sand in there, you can build a small city.

Night time view from the top of our hotel.

Our final day was at another Mall, the Mall of the Emirates, the home of the indoor ski slope. It's really quite spectacular. Again, no, we did not take out a second mortgage for two hours of sliding down 300 vertical feet of man made snow. We're in Japan in early March. We'll plan for some real snow!

Final couple hours at the pool before we head out. 

Apparently Dubai is keeping some of our old 90s chain restaurants relevant. 

I'll give Dubai one thing, it is phenomenal people watching territory. Between the malls, the waterpark, and just wandering around, you see all manner of odd behavior from people all around the world. It truly is a smorgasbord of different cultures all out to have a good time.

One thing is for darn sure, Americans (and by Americans, I mean me), sure do appreciate a little personal space, and it would seem other countries have a different view on the matter. We were coming back on the train this afternoon and it was largely empty. I found a quiet spot towards the front where I could stretch out and relax. One stop later, three gentlemen board and take residence right next to me. Mind you, the train is nearly empty. One more stop later, another person gets on and quite literally steps on my foot and puts his phone right next to my face. Not kidding, I could see the hairs on his knuckles. Again, empty train. It was so absurd, I just stood there laughing internally and loving the moment.

You can barely make out the brim of my hat. Zane was even taken aback by this curious behavior. 

Next stop.... Perth, Australia. Good-day mates!

South Africa, A Fond Farewell

Time is a curious thing. When we arrived four weeks ago it felt as though we had an eternity  in Cape Town and time was at our beck and call. As we planned our days, we could comfortably say, "It's slightly cloudy with a whisper of a breeze, let's go see the penguins some other day." We left today and I am wondering where all that time went. Now it's time to rev our engines, shift out of first, and dust off our travel shoes. While I think we could have stayed there indefinitely, it's time to move on. The world is calling, so we must go.

South Africa, and the Western Cape (including Cape Town and Garden Route) more specifically, is really a special place for us Californians. It feels so much like home, but if you were mysteriously time-warped to 1985. Granted, if 1985 had WiFi. All of the conveniences of good roads, clean water, good restaurants, law abiding traffic, and plenty of outdoor activities made it easy to get around and feel comfortable. The big box stores, chain restaurants, gargantuan grocery stores, and hi-tech billboards have not emerged. We never once filled up our car as it's all Full Service, people still sat in the bed of a pickup to get around, and parking was still mostly free. Given the strength of the dollar, things cost the same now as if it were 1985. There seems to be a simplicity to life and a freedom from a nanny state environment.

While I'm sure we would have enjoyed our time in Cape Town regardless of our accommodations, we really have to thank our host (Sam) for making our stay so special. As I've mentioned many times before, it's the people we meet that turns a typical vacation in to a meaningful journey.

Why it's the perfect place to vacation, but not live:

When we mentioned to folks back home that South Africa was on our itinerary, most lifted their eyebrows and told us to be careful. When we finally arrived to a home with two automatic gates and an electrified fence, we began to wonder. Sam told us to turn on the alarm and lock the doors every night.  But as the weeks wore on, we couldn't see any evidence of danger (certainly no more than any average city in the states) and we were perplexed.

It was only after several weeks and many conversations with the locals that we began to better understand the tone of life in South Africa. Locals would say to avoid driving through that area; It's ok to walk there during the day, but not at night; Best to walk in pairs there or you might be mugged; We usually drive that short distance to avoid being exposed; They bring the credit card machines to the table so your card is in your sight the entire time. Again, while we never felt in danger, the constant reminders began to cast a haze over one of the best places we have ever visited. For a country that is so wonderfully outdoorsy, it's a real shame that the freedom to explore and live life is abridged. All of this should not prevent people from visiting this part of the world, but sleeping with one eye open would grow very tiresome. (Note, all the touristy places are incredibly safe)

So why?...

Having only spent a fraction of my life, in a fraction of the country, observing a fraction of the people, and with zero education in the study of people and societies, the following thoughts are my opinion and do not reflect the views of my entire family. Reader discretion is advised.

There is a HUGE income gap. The Haves have what the Have-nots want, and the temptation to go to extremes is not surprising. Truth be told, from seeing the conditions in the Townships (shanty towns) I'm surprised it's not worse. I applaud the resiliency of the Black population. So how did it get so bad?

Apartheid, the government sanctioned segregation and exploitation of Black people, while officially ended in the early 90s, has never really been fully unraveled. Social equality may be here, but the economic effects of segregation will linger for many generations to come, if ever. Black people were stripped of assets, and left with no foundation for long term wealth. They own no businesses, no property, have no access to credit, and have no social networks of plugged-in people. If they're lucky, they will make the minimum wage of about $1.50/hr. The divide is never more apparent than going to a restaurant and seeing literally every customer is white, and every waiter is black.

Wealth typically takes generations to accumulate in the best of environments like the United States with the mindset of "getting ahead". From my brief walk through the Township, even if they were given access to the raw ingredients, I don't think they understand the recipe for success. They are a people waiting for the government to fix all their problems, but at the same time realizing how corrupt, short-sighted, and worthless the government is. I was hoping to see cheerful faces during my visit to give my uber privileged brain the peace of mind that happiness comes in many shapes and sizes, and perhaps it's all good. Regrettably, that's not what I saw, just resentment, and a constant reminder of their plight when they stare across the way at the fancy homes on the opposite hillside. 

I have never felt more lucky to have won the genetic lottery and born to the parents of industrious people in the States and immersed in a support network with other like minded people.

Ok, that's enough of that... [Insert transition music here]

Upon our return from the Garden Route, we still had about one week to do all those little things we kept pushing off. The last week was decidedly domestic. Here goes:

Street Faires and Braai:
Saturday was street fair day. First stop was the Old Biscuit Mill. We were hoping for a little more Farmers Market and Crafts, but it was mostly street food.

Still seeking out some fresh produce, we stumbled upon a wonderful small craft faire right under our noses in Hout Bay. Still no produce though.

Why were we so intent on produce? We needed fresh ingredients to make real California guac and salsa as we were hosting our host for a braai (BBQ) at his house.

Sam has two sons, Aidan and Tristan (both in college). Great young men made greater by the fact they taught Zane how to throw a rugby ball and got in to a long game of keep away.

Great food, great wine, excellent friends. Really felt satisfying to host a meal as though we were right back there in Lafayette.

Imizamo Yethu:

The following series of pics is of Imizamo Yethu, the Township within walking distance of our home. Every morning I would get up, sit at the kitchen table, drink my coffee, and stare and wonder what it is like over there, nestled underneath a beautiful rocky cliff. I finally had a moment to walk thru the Township with a local guide.

All the huts are made from salvaged scrap lumber and metal.

Every 25yds or so stood power poles with lights. Each hut attached to the pole making a sort of Christmas tree shape. They pay for power on an as needed basis.

The shacks are supposed to be "temporary" until the government builds permanent homes. People are given the homes on a first come first serve basis, but the waiting list is currently 10yrs long....

This is one of the permanent homes that was burned down by the people of the town. It was the home of one of the political party local representatives. The people took their discontent with their leadership in their own hands.

Llandudno Beach:

With only a couple nights to spare, we packed up a simple pasta dinner and went to a local beach (Llandudno) to take in the sunset. We left afterwards asking ourselves why we don't do more picnic dinners. It was a great time and the sunset was memorable.

Lots of dogs and kids. Autumn took lots of pictures.

The surf was fairly strong making for some impressive curls.

Not sure why we didn't come to the beach every night. It was about 10 minutes from our home.

A bouldery spit jutted in to the ocean making for a natural playground.  Again, the backdrop everywhere in Cape Town is as spectacular as the foreground.

Half Marathon and shopping:

Nicole had a hankering for a sweatshirt, and I wanted to fulfill my goal of completing a half marathon at some point during the year. We killed two birds with one stone, while she shopped, I ran.

My view as I ran along the coast from downtown back home.

They ate giant donuts and ice cream. What was I thinking.

Quick breather at the roadside trinket market that we drove by countless times.

Trivia Night:

Sam wanted to stack the deck with some American knowledge on his trivia night team at the local pub. We gladly obliged. We took second out of thirteen. Not too shabby. Wish we could have contributed more. That was a ton of fun and now we need to find this back home.

Zeitz MOCAA:

Our flight from Cape Town did not leave until 8pm, so we effectively had an entire day to fill before we got on the plane. We ended up at the brand new (just opened up this year) museum of modern art called the Zeitz MOCAA. We have decided that we are either too smart, or too stupid to fully grasp the art, but the building itself was magnificent. The museum is housed in a renovated concrete grain silo right in the heart of the downtown harbor district. It is truly a work of art itself. The key feature is the main atrium, an egg shaped negative space carved from the concrete creating wonderful lines for days. Just walking around the building was easily worth the price of admission (note, just like everything else in South Africa, it was crazy cheap by comparison to what it would cost in the states).

The tall section is actually a five star hotel, with the museum in the lower section behind. The windows were these wonderfully reflective faceted things.

Again, tough to capture the scale of this open space, but suffice it to say, it makes you pause and wonder how they carved up the silos as they did.

Having witnessed plenty of standard concrete sawcutting in my days, it blows me away how they were able to create the smooth curves at odd and undulating angles. 

Looking up through a void space between silos.

The rooftop had great views out to Table Mountain.

Might be kind of tough to read this paragraph at the odd angle, but it pretty much sums up why all of this artwork missed the mark for us.  "The idiomatic and proverbial references....arising from the assumptions of a binary universe and the problematics of the obvious dichotomies..."   What the what?

I truly tried to make sense of it all. I stared at things for 5 minutes wondering if something in my head would pop. Nope.

The Long Family universally decided that modern art is just random junk framed poorly and placed in a mostly empty room or on a wall much too large for the art itself.

Oh, and I almost forgot, the coup de grâce was one of the most disturbing displays of artwork and sculptures I have ever seen. It wasn't gory at all, but it was clear to us that the artist must have been intensely disturbed and is harboring some major childhood trauma issues. We quite literally had to cover Bryce and Zane's eyes to ensure they didn't get nightmares. If you want a glimpse, click here: https://www.rogerballen.com/installations/  It doesn't have the impact as standing in the room and immersed in the exhibit with creepy music playing in the background. So strange it was, we couldn't bring ourselves to take pictures or video for fear of putting a hex on our phones or something.

Final, Final Thought:

We will always look back on our South Africa trip fondly, and we truly hope we will return some day and pick up where we left off with our new friends.